Silverton, Washington has a hang up about being in touch. Out here, rivers sparkle like winter stars.  And the air smells like it was just made.  Denny Boyd grew up in asphalt meadows dreaming of such a place.  So 15 years ago, he left city life to open a store in the mountains of western Washington.  He neglected to notice the small print in his dream.  Silverton, Washington was one of the last towns in America where you cannot make a phone call.